My friend Rayan is here as a guest to show off one of her wonderful plans.  This is perfect for this time of year as we plant and are doing gardens.

Hello there friends! Rayan from The Design Confidential here visiting with you today! Wonderful to meet you all and hope to make some new friends while I’m here! We have a fun project to work on today so we had better get to work!

We covered a fantastic large planter on my site yesterday that is sure to be the talk of your next garden party! This fine specimen is the perfect accessory for it, coming in a much smaller size that is perfect for your seasonal plantings and would be amazing paired together or on it’s own for a smaller area of your patio!

The full dimensions are shown below so you can start planning your arrangement!

Estimated Cost: $25-$50

Oky dok, let’s talk about what you will need to build this planter!

Tape Measure

Sander

Drill

Saw

Miter Saw– you can also use a table saw, circular saw, jig saw or coping saw to create your mitered corners on the trim!

Kreg Jig® (pocket hole system)

1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws – Stainless Steel or Blue Kote if this is for outdoor use

1 1/4” Wood Screws or Nails – galvanized or coated if for outdoor use

4 – Curtain Rod Finials

Wood Glue – suitable for outdoor use if need be

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Wood:

1 – 2×2 at 8’

4 – 1×2 at 8’ (furring strips are the least expensive)

6 – 1×4 at 6’ – I recommend purchasing redwood or cedar fence boards. They are dog eared but they are really cheap and in a specie that withstands the elements well. If you prefer to purchase something other than fence boards I recommend 8’ furring strips as your next best bet, in which case you will need 4 at 8’

8’ of 3/4” trim in a style of your choosing

4 – 2×2 at 23 1/4” Legs

16 – 1×2 at 17 1/2” Rails and Side Panel Trim

20 – 1×4 at 13” Side Panels

5 – 1×4 at 17 1/2” Bottom

32 – 3” sections of 3/4” trim in a style of your choosing.

Consider using a specie of wood suitable for outdoor use such as Cedar or Redwood, and if you use a less expensive specie be sure you seal your table well to avoid a premature and untimely death of your piece.

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found on the main page of my site.

Build your structure: Begin with your Legs and fasten your rails in place at the 5” mark from the bottom and 3/4” down from the top of each leg. You can use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the rails to the Legs.

Fasten the Side Panels in Place: You can go about this in a number of ways, including using nails or screws and simply attaching the boards to the rails from the top down into the board and also from the bottom up into the board (This is likely what I would do especially if I had a nail gun!). If you choose to use wood screws, be sure to countersink them and use galvanized screws. You can also use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten to the Panels to the Rails if you prefer. The Boards should sit flush with the inside edges of the rails and legs.

Attach the Bottom Panels: Using your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, fasten the boards in place flush with the bottom rails.

Add the Side Panel Trim: Using your 1 1/4” Nails or screws, fasten the side trim in place. They should sit about 2” from the rails.

Add the Trim and Finials: This portion is optional but really seems to add a little something extra to this project. You will need 3/4” trim in a style of your choosing. The diagram shows a cove style molding, but this is where you can personalize your piece and customize it according to your other outdoor pieces. For the Most professional application of molding, you should miter or cope the corners and using finish nails and glue attach to the legs. Once you have your top trim in place, you can attach your finials. I recommend basic curtain rod finials and again you can choose any style you prefer! I chose round for this plan, but there are dozens of finial styles available that would work smashingly with this plan!

Finish by filling any nail or screw holes, sand, and finish as desired! Consider sealing to withstand the elements!

I hope you enjoyed this post, if you did let us know by leaving a comment below, Share it or Like it, and consider visiting me at my site to see what else I might be up to!